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Sailing Letter May 2016

June 7, 2016

The month started with a sail back to Martinique from Dominica. First stop was Anse Mitan, which we enjoy very much. A good anchorage close to a village with nice restaurants but less good super(-markets). From there we wanted to visit Fort de France (capital of Martinique) but we found the anchorage a bit too shallow and upset with all ferries and taxi boats so we went further south to Les Anses D’Arlet, a very small anchorage with crystal clear water. Petite but nice! Good snorkeling close to the boat is always appreciated. Unfortunately Peter’s ear was still bothering him so Eva had to do the dive herself, not as nice as being able to share experiences.

Next stop was Ste. Anne, outside the “Cul du sac” of the big Le Marin harbor. We stayed there to be able to swim and enjoy the anchorage before entering the major marina. We stayed anchored also in Le Marin and only took a place in the marina to celebrate our anniversaries: 2 years since leaving Sweden and 20 years as liveabords.

A lot of things had to be done in Le Marin before moving on: stocking up on food and water, clean the fridge and freezer, replacing our compass, buying spare parts and appointments to the dentist and doctor (Peter is now able to dive again!) We bought a wind scope to get some more wind down the aft cabin. Works well

The Whitsun eve was spent with the Swedish boat “Nanny”. Very nice (and long) evening with guitar play and a lot of “chit chat”.

We now feel the change in season. People/boats packing up and going north to get back to Europe or down below the hurricane belt for “over-summering”. Restaurants are closing, so it is like autumn back home. This year we have talked to some people that are moving to the ABC islands for the hurricane season. We have also heard a lot of good rumors about the snorkeling/diving areas there. So we decided to check out these islands.

Mid May we headed to St Lucia, wanting to see the harbor where all ARC’s are ending up, crossing the Atlantic. We stayed at anchor in a rather sheltered bay outside the harbor. The surroundings were not really our “piece of cake”, rather touristic and most likely a party place when the ARC comes, but now more restaurants were closed than open. The original village was a bit off from the harbor and seamed to live a separate life side by side with the big marina. Anyway we stayed there for almost a week, enduring 36 hours of rain before we could check out, buy some cheap diesel and go west towards Bonaire.

Full moon, wind from the aft (too much from the aft unfortunately) and no fishing luck. After gybing north and south we used the engine the last day to take us in to Bonaire during daylight.

We took a mooring buoy just outside Kralendijk and checked in for a week (as a start). The water is crystal clear and we are moored on a slope that is 4,5 meter at the bow and leaning from 10 to 60 meters just aft from us. Makes nice snorkeling! Bonaire is a nature reserve since 35 years, handled very seriously; you even have to have a permit to snorkel.  Doing dives close to the boat you see the result of the efforts. I (Eva) have never seen so many different fishes, some rather big, in such a small space since Hurghada in Egypt. We are enjoying it daily. The island, Bonaire, has a welcoming feeling to it. We will stay here at least a month (if weather permits) before moving on to Curacau where we shall haul the boat for regular maintenance and install a water maker among other things.

Nature

Fabulous: on land you have wild donkeys, Amazonas parrots, Iguanas and really pink Flamingoes. Under water there is a throng of fishes. Big, small, all colours. Yesterday I counted to 7-8 Moray Eels, 3 different types. We have a Porcupine fish swimming around our mooring stone every day, Sargent majors, Trunk fishes, Eels, Surgeon fishes etc. are everywhere. For the first time I (Eva) have been able to identify the different species, from not only “male and female” but also “adults and young”. Since we do the snorkeling almost at the same place every day, we have the ability to check them out more in detail. A fantastic place…

Until next time,

BR, Eva & Peter

From → Sailing Letters

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